Change what you can…the rest you have to let be.
Once upon a time, a very long while ago, I strode away from
my usual world. People talk of folks who were last seen walking away on a
trail, and they just got swallowed up by the mountains. Well, that's kinda what
it feels like. Jonah was gulped down by the whale. I disappeared into the
mountains. All Jonah saw for a while was whale, and I all saw were mountains,
for three weeks. For that short period of time, the outside world ceased to
exist.
Two deer awoke and tiptoed away in the predawn darkness.
They had been napping next to my car in the Camp Curry parking lot. No one else
was around. I had checked and rechecked
my backpack the night before, so it was ready. I pulled it out of the
trunk. The trick was to balance it on my knee, and then wriggle into the
shoulder straps. Once I cinched down the waist band, I was ready to go. The old
bamboo ski pole felt familiar to my hand. So did the weight on my back.
An old wood sign listing places along the trail, and the
mileage to said places, leaned against a tree alongside the burbling river
where the paved world ended and the trail began. Vernal Fall was first on the
list, a mile or so up the trail. Then came the summits of Half Dome and Clouds
Rest, Tuolumne Meadows, and then several others. At the bottom was Mt Whitney,
a distant 217 miles.
The photograph of the sign is too blurred to read. The light
was still too faint for my camera, but it was the first I took on the John Muir
Trail, so it sits first in the slide carousel. Many photos followed. The last
captures Dan and me at 13,700 feet, crouching out of the wind at the trail
junction leading to the summit of Mt Whitney, munching on granola bars. We have
our parkas on, but our legs are bare below our shorts. Remnants of the previous
night's snowfall cling to the rocks. The snow is not melting. We are grinning
like madmen.
The scribbling in my journal grew longer as each day in the
mountains passed, a futile attempt to capture feelings inspired by such a journey.
The little notebook records the anguish of facing all those miles in spite of
those leg cramps that arrived on the first afternoon. It recalls the
frustration when the bear took the food. And it tattles on a mind perhaps too
prone to introspection when left with too little distraction.
My journal also talks of skies so blue they hurt the eye,
and the glory of mountains stacked upon yet more mountains stretching as far as
that eye could see. And it talks of friends made on the trail and others who
walked in to join me and help celebrate the last days of this adventure. It
tells of a time and place so detached from my usual day to day reality, that I
paused to talk to a tree, and the tree talked back.
The trail took on its own routine, one different from the
outside world. Sunrises came, and then sunsets, and always miles to go before I
slept. Day, after day, after day. Unlike the world out there, instead of trying
to shut down my brain to protect it from overwhelming oppression, I worked to
keep it receptive to overwhelming beauty.
This journey, as all good things eventually do, came to its
end. Dan dropped me off at my car in the Curry parking lot. It was covered with
dust, but it started right away.
I felt I had been out of touch for a while, so I turned on
the radio. Nothing had changed while I matriculated in the mountains. Nothing
in the world anyway. Crime and corruption, anger and violence, insurrection and
war continued unabated. Regardless of what I did, or didn't do, or how good it
felt just doing it for those three weeks, I hadn't really affected anything out
there. But inside…well that would be a different matter.
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